FOUNDATION

The first step in the garage building process is the foundation. This surface will ensure that your structure has a reliable base, which is crucial for the life of your garage. A foundation starts with excavation, grading, and compaction.

We will remove the soil and prepare a compact, level area. This will help to avoid settling later on. From there we can set a form to pour concrete. Getting exact measurements, we mark the edges and corners, run any drainage, plumbing, or radiant heat, and frame out exactly where the slab will be. A layer of 4-6 inches of gravel will be placed within the form, followed by a vapor barrier. For larger garages digging trenches may be necessary to install footings, which are extra prevention against settling. Steel mesh or rebar will then be placed to give the slab extra strength.

The next step is pouring the concrete. Working from one side to the other we shovel and move the wet concrete as we go, insuring it is spread evenly and all gaps are filled. The concrete is leveled with the top of the frame and use a float to remove any air pockets and create a smooth finish. Anchor bolts will be placed for later support of the building frame. As the concrete begins to set, the edges and corners are troweled. After 2 days the forms can be removed. A poured slab foundation then has to cure, which can typically take a week before light work can start and up to 28 days if heavier materials are being used. After curing and before framing, we will check for any cracks and make sure the ground around the edge of the foundation has sufficient slope for proper drainage. Then framing

can begin.

FRAMING

Framing the walls is the next step in building a garage. This is the sturdy inner structure for your walls, which can be wood or metal. Light framing can usually begin after 7 days of curing. We start by marking where the walls will be placed on the slab, ensuring accurate placement of the exterior, any interior walls, windows and doors.

The wall frames are then built while laying flat on the foundation. Headers are added above door and window openings for support and we lift them into place one at a time.. They are attached to the anchor bolts and are squared and plumbed. Typically studs are placed 16 inches apart, to provide maximum strength. Diagonal bracing is sometimes necessary to be sure no shifting occurs.

Next comes the roof framing where we install the trusses or rafters, the interior roof support. Rafters can be made at the site or trusses can be pre-made for quicker installation. They are attached to the top of the wall frames, one at a time. Then comes sheathing, where plywood or OSB is placed on the exterior of the walls and roof. This provides extra support and a surface where the siding can be attached. Finally a water-resistant barrier or house wrap is stapled to the sheathing and the exterior finishes can be applied.